Slightly fancier than the average Thai, this dark, sexy (think candles and mirrors) East Villager proffers delicious dishes with a contemporary twist dispensed by a friendly crew; if servings are small, so are the prices.

What sets Holy Basil apart from many Thai restaurants is the graceful balance of the cooking. Nearly every dish is a study in control, with flavors and textures unfolding in careful relation to each other.

Named after an essential regional ingredient, Holy Basil is the place where east meets west literally as this buzzing Thai eatery resides directly above the Anglocentric Telephone Bar. Start off with the savory steamed mussels with white wine and herbs. You can't go wrong with any of the curries, from the delicate kang massamun to the more daring green curry, kang kiew warn. If you're in the mood for something different, try the surprisingly moist whole fried bass or the more exotic sautéed crispy duck, known as pet kapraw.

Holy Basil's extensive, traditional Thai cuisine is several notches above its competitors. This is a good place to deviate from your standard pad Thai order: Try the melt-in-your-mouth steak salad, the mixed-seafood red curry with pineapple or any of the dishes containing the restaurant's namesake herb. Vegetarians will find plenty of fresh options, and everyone should finish with a bowl of fruit-infused rice pudding.